Gunpla Grades Explained: HG, RG, MG, PG, SD and Entry Grade Compared

What a Gunpla grade means

A grade is Bandai's way of grouping kits by the level of detail, size and complexity. Two kits of the same robot can be very different depending on the grade. A small one may snap together in an evening with few parts, while a larger one can contain an internal skeleton, many small pieces and extra features that take many hours to finish.

Grades are not strict quality rankings. A well-made High Grade can look excellent, and a complicated Master Grade is not automatically better for a beginner. Think of the grade as a trade-off between size, detail, effort and cost, then choose what fits the time and workspace you have.

Entry Grade and High Grade

Entry Grade kits are designed as simple starting points, with few parts, clean molding and minimal tools needed. They are quick to build and a good way to see whether you enjoy the hobby. Many have less articulation and detail than other grades, but they are easy to finish.

High Grade kits, usually abbreviated HG, are a very common grade, often in 1/144 scale, and cover a huge range of mobile suits. They offer good value, reasonable detail and a manageable build, which is why they are a favorite first kit. Newer HG releases often have improved engineering with good color separation and posing, though quality varies by release year and design.

If you are unsure, pick a simple HG kit of a robot you like. Enjoying the subject matters more than the grade, and a kit you love is much more likely to get finished. Once you have built a few, you will have a clearer sense of what you want from the next one, whether that is more detail, more size or more speed.

Compare Gundam model kits →

Real Grade

Real Grade, or RG, is generally 1/144 scale like High Grade but with much more detail and an internal frame system, which gives surprisingly good posing for a small figure. The parts are tiny, and there are usually many of them, so the build asks for steady hands and patience. Stickers and markings add more detail.

RG suits builders who want the look of a larger kit in a small size and who are comfortable with small parts. A first kit in this grade can be rewarding but also frustrating if you rush, so it helps to have good lighting, tweezers and magnification.

See magnifiers for models →

Master Grade

Master Grade, or MG, is usually 1/100 scale and has an inner frame, more parts, greater articulation and more detailed armor than HG. The larger size means details are easier to see and handle, and the kits can look impressive on a shelf. Builds take longer, and some variants include special features or extra weapons.

Many builders consider MG a comfortable step after a few HG kits. The assembly is more involved, but the instructions are clear and the results can be satisfying. Expect to spend several sessions on one kit, and plan for panel lining and a top coat to bring out detail.

Perfect Grade, Mega Size and SD

Perfect Grade, or PG, is typically 1/60 scale and the most elaborate line, with a very high parts count, complex inner structure and sometimes lights or other features. It is a big project for experienced builders, and it requires space for the finished piece.

Mega Size kits are large, simplified 1/48 models that are easier to build than their size suggests. Super Deformed, or SD, kits show characters with a small, chibi-like proportion and are quick, fun builds. Neither follows the same logic as the main scale-based grades, so treat them as separate styles.

Which grade should you start with?

For most beginners, Entry Grade or High Grade is a safe first choice. They teach the basics of cutting parts from the runner, cleaning gate marks and assembling, without hours of work. Once you are comfortable, try a Real Grade for detail or a Master Grade for scale.

Think about your goals too. If you want to paint and customize, larger kits give more surface area. If you want fast, relaxing builds, HG fits well. You can mix grades on one shelf, and many collectors do. Check the box for the scale and grade label before buying, as it is easy to confuse similar-looking boxes.

Budget and space also matter. Bigger grades usually cost more and take more room on a shelf, so check the finished dimensions if display space is limited. Some builders collect one grade for consistency, while others pick favorite designs across grades. There is no wrong answer, and the hobby is flexible enough to suit both approaches.

Read our Gundam building basics →

Tools that help in every grade

Whatever grade you choose, a good pair of sprue cutters, a hobby knife and sanding sticks make a clear difference to the finished look. Cut the part off the runner a little away from the piece, then trim the remainder to avoid white stress marks. Our guide to sprue cutters compares options.

Frequently asked questions: Are Gunpla kits glue-free? Most are snap-fit and do not require glue or paint, although many builders add both. Is MG better than HG? Not always; it has more detail and parts but is harder to build. Do grades have the same scale? No, scales differ by grade, so check each box.

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Frequently asked questions

Are Gunpla kits glue-free? Most are snap-fit and do not require glue or paint, although many builders add both for a cleaner finish.

Is Master Grade better than High Grade? Not automatically. It has more detail, parts and articulation, but it is also harder and takes longer to build.

Do all grades use the same scale? No. Scales differ between grades, so check the label on each box before you buy if you want kits that display well together. What grade is best for a first kit? Entry Grade or High Grade is a safe choice, because the builds are short and forgiving.